Jean Patou Chaldee Heritage Collection Eau de Parfumee Spray for Women 100 ml

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So for the scent itself, while it lasts, beautiful, a good 8/10. Sillage was reasonable, this leaves a very delicate scent trail. But longevity, is virtually zero, maybe 2-3 hours, tops. Now if this only cost a tenner, I'd go for it, no doubt, and just keep topping up. But for this price no chance! In 1927, Chaldee was the fourth fragrance released by Jean Patou. It sprang up from another Jean Patou product Huile de Chaldee which was meant to be used a suntan oil, as “sun culture” was just coming into its own in the late 1920’s. Suntan oil in those early days was just castor oil and so Jean Patou asked their perfumer Henri Almeras to add something to the castor oil to make it smell nice. After its launch they found women wearing it even when they weren’t in the sun because they liked the smell and so M. Almeras designed the perfume version simply named Chaldee. An almost aldehydic (bergamot, orange blossom) twist at the top is unmistakably retro-sounding but introduces the prettiest, sunniest, yet light and creamy ylang that shines with femininity; a warm loving hug instead of a passionate kiss. In short period of time the glorious Ylang fades merging with amber/rose, gliding towards the powdery drydown (musk). A safe departure from the glistening opening I would say, still can't deny the absolute diva-quality of this sublime sun ray. (EDT) I adore this and if this reformulated version is already impressive enough, I am dying to know what the original must have been like. I just got the 2013 version, blind-bought at a good price. I was concerned it might be thin or cheap-smelling, but it’s a very nice warm amber, slight vanilla, and opopanax at the base, while the floral heart is not sharp or pissy. It’s fairly soft and melds well with my skin. Chaldee was originally a suntan oil, so the veil-like quality is understandable.

Worn alone, the top must be added because it needs some sparkle and lift to be complete and sublime. This one certainly confuses me! On my skin it smelled overwhelmingly like cigarette smoke. I thought "That can't be right" and after 20 minutes or so, I sprayed on a few more sprays. More cigarette smoke! I waited 10-15 minutes and went to see what my son and his girlfriend thought. His girlfriend said adamantly "casino!" (meaning cigarette smells mixed with perfume). There's another "two perfume" story here also. I remember this well from when it originally came out. Then the ambers were gorgeous but huge. The greens didn't disappear; they augmented and defined the amber. It was a perfume for a proud confident woman and anyone who wore it considered it a signature. It's not that way anymore. It's still very good but it's like a woman denying she's had a face lift but everyone notices that the eyes aren't quite right. I wish that IFRA and perfumers would quit messing with the wonderful scents; I also wish that they'd at least tell us when they make these changes. Since writing my first review, I have also had the pleasure of trying out the 1980s version of this scent, from the "Ma Collection" series. I don't know how that version compares to the original 1920s Huile de Chaldee, created as a tanning product, and later Chaldee perfume based upon the same scent, but I can see that this new version remains somewhat faithful to it's immediate predecessor. Both have that crisp, aldehydic feeling, and the freshness, underscored by clean florals (narcissus, jasmine, orange blossom, and the dewiness of a soft rose) and resins (opoponax and something slightly sweet). The older version I tried was a little battered and bruised by age and had that vintage feeling that is so hard to describe, and the two were by no means identical, but there was a clear link between one and the other, in my opinion, particularly in the soft aldehydes I'm convinced I could smell, althogh not mentioned in the notes list.and always try to buy a smaller amount of the higher concentration. i generally find edts that aren't formulated as such (4711 for example) are already at the corner before one is even done dabbing or spraying them on. one has to run like a fiend to catch up with their evaporating molecules - which is counter productive. I almost blind bought the reformulation 30ml bottle because it's the cheaper one out of Patou's perfumes and they all got discontinued, but after this experience I'm glad I didn't.

Luscious orange top notes blended with cinnamon and green nuances is what opens Sublime. Surprisingly this fragrance smells quite clean and refreshing. As the orange settles, jasmine, carnation and ylang ylang provide a sweet, feminine bouquet. L'Heure Attendue: For those who love well blended fragrances that are timeless and create mood and ambiance, a contemplative beauty. Star rating: 5 stars–outstanding/potential classic, 4 stars–very good, 3 stars–adequate, 2 stars–disappointing, 1 star–poor. Recognizing women’s newfound love for sun and summer sports, Jean Patou was one of the first fashion and fragrance houses to introduce suntan oil which was named Chaldée, after an ancient Sumerian city. In 1927, Henri Alméras reinterpreted Chaldée in a fragrance form with notes of orange flower, hyacinth, jasmine; narcissus, lilac; vanilla, opoponax, amber.The heart of this perfume is simply beautiful, I kept getting the most wonderful wafts of florals underscored with sweet resin as I moved around, and smelled up close the resins were more noticeable.

In conclusion I would like to sincerely thank Thomas Fontaine for his excellent work on the revival of Jean Patou's fame, and I keep my fingers crossed for Jean Patou's new fragrances in 2014. As far as I know, Mr. Fontaine promised to add some new perfumes to the Heritage collection this year. Edit:12/22/22 I blind bought all of the Heritage Collection, but I did decide to break it up. I gave the Deux Amour to my neighbor. It was a quality perfume for sure, but it was too much like Chanel #5 for me. And I gave away Vacances to a lovely person I met here. Another quality release from this gone but not forgotten glorious Design House. I know breaking up a whole collection seems crazy to a collector, but I would rather these perfumes be worn and Deux Amour and Vacances though not my style are beautiful creations. If you are a person who loves class, elegance and true perfume art you should try to snap up some of these beauties before they are gone forever.From 1967 to 1999 Jean Kerléo was the house perfumer, he developed all their perfumes during that time including "1000" (1972) and "Sublime" (1992), "Patou Pour Homme" (1980). [8] Somewhere in the ’90s the chypre fell off the radar. Blame the IFRA, blame Angel (also 1992), blame whoever you like. It went quietly from the pinnacle of chic to over-the-hill faster than you can say ‘mousse de chêne.’ Contrary to my previous review, I would say this lasts about 6-7 hours for me, if sprayed onto skin and clothing. It projects roughly within arms length as far as I can tell. I highly recommend giving this one a go, because it is beautiful!

Definitely a chypre, but warmer than most, with a golden aura. The ylang is dominating together with gentle aldheides and a spicy carnation; indeed spices are there with sweet note that resembles apricot (or osmanthus). It's such a pity that Sublime no longer graces our shelves anymore. I managed to grab a lotion on sale a few months ago, but since then, Sublime and its body products are nowhere to be found. Adieu Sagesse: Bright, fun, a bit girly but w/ a sophisticated aura. A posh garden party awaits you. I'm not kidding! But I must say this: I have heard much of JOY and 1,000 and that Patou released masterpiece perfumes...but had NO idea! This is a very classic scent, without the usual vintage bombast of aldehydes and oakmoss so prevalent in its contemporaries. Anyone who wants to smell paradise should try this... I have had a small travel-sized atomizer of Sublime by Jean Patou for a couple of years--I keep it in a drawer and put it on sometimes as a mild mood elevator. I'm not 100% sold on the intense citrus blast at the beginning, but it doesn't take too long for it to calm down and reveal its subtler, more long-lasting notes: jasmine, along with a bit of that intoxicating bracing medicinal odor, the note that elevates Guerlain's L'Heure Bleue from merely pretty to, well, sublime. For me Sublime by Jean Patou doesn't quite live up to that classic fragrance, but it's still more wonderful than 99% of the smells out there. The powdery drydown is a nice, clean, classic-soap smell, like fresh laundry and cedar drawer-liner paper.Given those differences, there are some contemporary reformulations of classics that are successful. While they don't -- they can't -- smell like the originals, they are similar and are very pretty and wearable on their own merits. This is not a deep faithful rendition of the vintage colony. However, it is lighter, vintage in tone without feeling "old" It has medium depth. I cant really say there is a modern comparison to this. So in that respect, it is different and well done for an "inspired or updated" piece. In 1924 the legendary designer, JEAN PATOU was widely perceived as the world’s most innovate and successful fashion designer. When he launched his first fragrances in that same year his rationale was brilliantly simple. Patou adored women....all women and so as a homage to brunettes, blondes and redheads all over the world his first foray into fragrance matched scents to hair color and appealed to everyone. Ever since then, the House of JEAN PATOU has shaped the world of fine perfume with iconic scents such as JOY, SUBLIME and 1000 that have immortalized its reputation as a symbol of quality and prestige. Chypre perfumes tend to have a strong presence and it’s easy to characterize the eras of the chypre. The ur-chypre by Coty and the seminal chypre by Guerlain, Mitsouko. The animalic chypres of the ’40s (eg. Miss Dior). The moonlit floral chypres of the ’50s (Jolie Madame.) The aldehydic and green chypres of the ’60s (Calèche and YSL Y ), the liberated chypres of the ’70s (Aromatics Elixir and Diorella) and the roaring rose chypres of the ’80s (La Nuit and Parfum de Peau). Of course, there are differences. They're the typical ones you might expect, and have experienced yourself if you have owned vintages and their modern counterparts. The vintages are generally denser and richer, benefiting from now-restricted or limited materials such as nitro-musks and oakmoss. The base notes are heavier and the scent stays on the skin, developing for hours. The modern formulations are general lighter and brighter, more "pixelated" and less complex, thinner, with top notes more prominent (the vintage versions typically losing those to varying degrees from age in the bottle). Quite often modern formulations can be harsher, disjointed and more synthetic-smelling.